Starting a Landscape Design Business.Revised
by Wolfdave
To start a Landscape Design Business you will only need a computer and some design software. You can get some great programs and there are some free trial versions available. This allows you to insert a photograph then add images to create the perfect garden. On your computer, you can move things around and try different designs, until you are happy with your creation. Then you will have a working plan to show to potential customers. Give your customers a choice by creating several designs. There are upgrades and professional versions available, but to start with the free versions are more than adequate.
Landscape gardening can be divided into two basic categories, the first is self-explanatory you design, and then create someone a perfect private garden. The second is probably more lucrative and the customers are usually easier to please, this is commercial landscaping for companies and businesses, I suggest you start with landscaping people's gardens, followed by taking on some commercial projects.
The first step we have to take is to make sure we are thought of as professional. To achieve this you first need to learn to use a landscape design programme as mentioned above. If you aren't comfortable with these just look on Google you can usually find some different ones and help from forums. But learn you must to give yourself a professional image and an edge over any competition. The best way to learn is to just try it. Start with your own garden; create several different designs until you feel competent to design someone else’s. Repeat with your neighbour’s garden if you wish.
Once you have created several designs, print them out on high-quality paper, and put them all together in a folder. To do this take some photographs of friend’s and relatives gardens, then use these with your landscape programmes to show where you'd make improvements. One way to get started is if you’re relatives or a friend's garden needs landscaping. You could offer to do the work and keep a photo diary of it. If it's for a friend, you could maybe do the work for free if your friend only paid for the materials. This would help selling your service as you will have photos of a job already completed.
Now there are lots of ways to promote your new business, and the following idea is one which could generate a lot of interest. Do a show garden at a local flower show or country show, just about any large event where you have a lot of people who are interested in gardens or homes. You can usually get the space for free, if you are willing to put on a display if you do have to pay to space, I suggest selling a few plants to cover the cost. Just type 'show and the place you live' into Google with a bit of searching around you should get all events come up that are local to you.
You can either choose to exhibit inside or outside, I suggest outside throughout the summer, and to be honest, it's not worth creating a show garden in winter as your display plants will not look brilliant. Bring your folder with your designs and have these visible for people to see. As with any new business, the more effort you put in at the very start, the more likely success it will have.
For your display garden I suggest about 15 feet by about 15 feet. In this area incorporate a patio with slabs or deck covering about two thirds of the area, have a table and chairs with a few planters on the deck/patio. Round the edge of the patio, have raised bed, using some wood to build up is usually the easiest. In the raised beds, make use of the large plants and trees if you can get them, then under plant with herbaceous perennials and a few bedding. You can usually drum up a lot of interest this way.
For more information on making money from plants and gardening click HERE:
Monday, 28 December 2009
Friday, 25 December 2009
Starting A Landscape Gardening Business
Starting a Landscape Design Business.
The beauty of this is your only need a computer and some design software. You can get some great programs, there are some free trial versions avaliable One I have found is http://www.showoff.com/Showoffpurchase.html This allows you to insert a photograph then add images to create the perfect garden there is an upgrade for $ 40 but I only used the free version for my own garden.
Another tool to use Is at www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/design/virtualgarden_index.shtml its a free tool and I had a play and Found it was very good .
There are two types of landscape gardening. The first is self-explanatory, you design, then create someone a perfect garden. The second is probably more lucrative and the customers are usually easier to please, this is commercial landscaping for companies and businesses, I suggest we start with landscaping people's gardens, followed by taking on some commercial projects.
The first step we have to take is to make sure we are thought of as professional, to do this you will need to first learn to use the landscape programmes above, if you aren't comfortable with these just look on Google you can usually find some different ones. Most have free 30 day trial.
Becoming a expert
To start with I would recommend you learn how to use the software above, do some designs print them out on high-quality paper, and put them all together in a folder. To do this take some photographs of friends gardens, then use these with your landscape programmes to show where you'd make improvements. The best way, if your garden or a friend's garden needs landscaping, is to do the work and keep a photo diary of it. if it's for a friend, you could maybe do the work for free if your friend just pays for materials. This would help selling your service as you will have photos of
a job already completed.
Getting your first job
Now there are lots of ways to approach this, and I think I have figured out the best for you. Do a show garden at a local flower show or country show, just about any large event where you have a lot of people who are interested in gardens or homes.
You can usually get the space for free, if you are willing to put on a display if you do have to pay for space, I suggest selling a few plants to cover the cost.
Just type 'show and the place you live' into Google with a bit of searching around you should get all events come up that are local to you.
You can either choose to exhibit inside or outside, I suggest outside throughout the summer, and to be honest, it's not worth creating a show garden in winter as your display plants will not look brilliant.
For your display garden I suggest about 15 feet by about 15 feet. In this area incorporate a patio with slabs or deck covering about two thirds of the area, have a table and chairs with a few planters on the deck/patio. Round the edge of the patio, have raised bed, using some wood to build up is usually the easiest. In the raised beds, make use of the large plants and trees if you can get them, then under plant with herbaceous perennials and a few bedding plants. You can usually drum up a lot of interest this way.
For more information on making money from plants and gardening click HERE:
Growing House Plants. Division
Make MOney Growing Plants. Division
Division.
A lot of perennial plants can be grown by division. This is a lot easier than taking cuttings, and if you have friends, who have large gardens. You can usually get your plants for free, By dividing their plants up. You can get 50 to 100 little plants from one large plant, which means if you have a few friends with biggish gardens, you can stock your whole nursery for free. Also Perennial plants need dividing every two or three years. So you are doing your friends a favour by having all these free plants off them.
When should you divide perennials?
The best time to dig up and divide perennials is late autumn through to early spring. Personally I like to leave this until after Christmas, as the plants start to shoot and grow in January.
How to divide your perennials?
Dig around the plant and lift the root ball out of the ground shaking it. Once you have got it out of the ground knock as much soil away as possible. Try to make it so you can see all the buds of the plant round the crown.
If possible pull the plant apart with your hands, If not use a sharp knife. For larger plants you may need to sharpen a spade to use. If you read nearly every other book it will tell you to be very careful, when you do this, and do not damage any part of the plant. In reality whether you use a knife, a spade, a fork or even a saw, 90% of the plants you divide will live. When doing it for myself I chop these perennials Into very small pieces. I will sometimes get 200 small plants out of a large plant. The one thing to remember is try and get a piece of root connected to a piece of the crown, if you manage this the plants should grow.
Plants Suitable For Dividing:
The easiest plants to divide are the perennial plants listed below Including: Achillia, Aconitum, Agapanthus, Alcea, Alstromeria,.Anemone, Aster, Astilbe, Astrantia, Bergenia, Campanula, Chleone, Crocosmia, Delphinium, Dicentra, Digitalis, Echnacea, Erygium, Geranium (The perennial variety), Hellenium, Helleborus, Hemerocallis, Hosta, Iris, Kniphofia, Liatris, Lupins, Monarda, Paeonia, Phlox, Primula, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Sedium, Sidelsea, Tradescantai Trollis, Verbena, Verbascum, Veronica a lot of other plants will divide, if you are nor sure either look in the R.H.S propagation guide or just try some.
The advantages of dividing perennials rather than grow them from seed, is you get bigger plants which have more growth and flowers on them.
This means you can sell the plant faster, and for more money.
For more information on Dividing and making money growing plants click HERE:
Division.
A lot of perennial plants can be grown by division. This is a lot easier than taking cuttings, and if you have friends, who have large gardens. You can usually get your plants for free, By dividing their plants up. You can get 50 to 100 little plants from one large plant, which means if you have a few friends with biggish gardens, you can stock your whole nursery for free. Also Perennial plants need dividing every two or three years. So you are doing your friends a favour by having all these free plants off them.
When should you divide perennials?
The best time to dig up and divide perennials is late autumn through to early spring. Personally I like to leave this until after Christmas, as the plants start to shoot and grow in January.
How to divide your perennials?
Dig around the plant and lift the root ball out of the ground shaking it. Once you have got it out of the ground knock as much soil away as possible. Try to make it so you can see all the buds of the plant round the crown.
If possible pull the plant apart with your hands, If not use a sharp knife. For larger plants you may need to sharpen a spade to use. If you read nearly every other book it will tell you to be very careful, when you do this, and do not damage any part of the plant. In reality whether you use a knife, a spade, a fork or even a saw, 90% of the plants you divide will live. When doing it for myself I chop these perennials Into very small pieces. I will sometimes get 200 small plants out of a large plant. The one thing to remember is try and get a piece of root connected to a piece of the crown, if you manage this the plants should grow.
Plants Suitable For Dividing:
The easiest plants to divide are the perennial plants listed below Including: Achillia, Aconitum, Agapanthus, Alcea, Alstromeria,.Anemone, Aster, Astilbe, Astrantia, Bergenia, Campanula, Chleone, Crocosmia, Delphinium, Dicentra, Digitalis, Echnacea, Erygium, Geranium (The perennial variety), Hellenium, Helleborus, Hemerocallis, Hosta, Iris, Kniphofia, Liatris, Lupins, Monarda, Paeonia, Phlox, Primula, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Sedium, Sidelsea, Tradescantai Trollis, Verbena, Verbascum, Veronica a lot of other plants will divide, if you are nor sure either look in the R.H.S propagation guide or just try some.
The advantages of dividing perennials rather than grow them from seed, is you get bigger plants which have more growth and flowers on them.
This means you can sell the plant faster, and for more money.
For more information on Dividing and making money growing plants click HERE:
House Plant Pests and Diseases. Part 2
House Plant Pests and Diseases – Part 2
by Wolfdave
More and more people are discovering that growing indoor plants is a very satisfying and rewarding hobby. And because the homes in which we now live are lighter, warmer and more or less draught free, than they used to be, there is less chance of house plants suffering from dramatic changes in temperature throughout the course of the day, or night. So a whole new range of indoor plants from across the world can now be successfully grown indoors.
This article focuses on common pests and diseases found on indoor plants.
Weevils. Are leaf chewing beetles about 1” long. They attack plant roots and can quickly destroy the whole root system, particularly those of Cyclamen and Primulas. The plant will show signs of wilting at the top and can occur quite suddenly. Beetle grubs are cream in colour and can usually be seen if the potting mixture is shaken out. Badly damaged plants can not usually be saved, but if you spot the signs early enough, pick of the adult beetles and soak the potting mixture with a pesticide.
White Flies. These can be difficult to control, they are small white insects found on the underside of leaves. They suck sap from the plant and deposit sticky honeydew. The plant will become considerably weakened. You may have to try different types of pesticide, including liquid derris. You will need to spray repeatedly until infestation is under control.
Worms. Not normally a problem with house plants but if you take your plants outside during the summer months, they can get into pots and cause damage. If you suspect damage from earthworms, repot the plant in fresh mixture, taking care to shake of any old mixture from the root ball. To avoid worms getting into your pots whilst outside, raise your plants a couple of inches from the ground, and sit the pot on a piece of tile or other suitable smooth material.
A common disease for house plants is rotting. Rotting is caused by fungi and signs of this will include unhealthy looking leaves and leaves dropping off. Rotting is usually caused by over-watering. All damaged parts should be removed and water the remainder sparingly. If the plant has been infected too much, then take cuttings from any remaining healthy parts and throw the plant away. Mildew will show up as a white powder on the leaves. Once again, this is usually caused by too much water. Remove all affected parts and spray the plant with a fungicide. Keep the plant on the dry side for a while, and then water sparingly.
If the leaves of a plant become pale and growth is spindly, then the most probable cause is that the potting mixture has become exhausted. Too much warmth over winter months can also produce a similar effect. Replace the compost with fresh mixture, place in a lighter position during the growing season, and rest in a cool dry site over winter. If the plant appears not to grow during the summer months, then this is another sign that the potting mixture needs replacing or feeding has been neglected. If leaves appear discoloured, distorted or sticky, examine the plant for pests. Leaves which turn yellow, but do not drop off, indicate the presence of lime in plants, that don’t like lime.
If you are unsure of the potting mixture, the right feed, the required room temperature and position, then ask for advice at your local garden centre.
For more information and to find out how you can make money growing plants, click HERE
by Wolfdave
More and more people are discovering that growing indoor plants is a very satisfying and rewarding hobby. And because the homes in which we now live are lighter, warmer and more or less draught free, than they used to be, there is less chance of house plants suffering from dramatic changes in temperature throughout the course of the day, or night. So a whole new range of indoor plants from across the world can now be successfully grown indoors.
This article focuses on common pests and diseases found on indoor plants.
Weevils. Are leaf chewing beetles about 1” long. They attack plant roots and can quickly destroy the whole root system, particularly those of Cyclamen and Primulas. The plant will show signs of wilting at the top and can occur quite suddenly. Beetle grubs are cream in colour and can usually be seen if the potting mixture is shaken out. Badly damaged plants can not usually be saved, but if you spot the signs early enough, pick of the adult beetles and soak the potting mixture with a pesticide.
White Flies. These can be difficult to control, they are small white insects found on the underside of leaves. They suck sap from the plant and deposit sticky honeydew. The plant will become considerably weakened. You may have to try different types of pesticide, including liquid derris. You will need to spray repeatedly until infestation is under control.
Worms. Not normally a problem with house plants but if you take your plants outside during the summer months, they can get into pots and cause damage. If you suspect damage from earthworms, repot the plant in fresh mixture, taking care to shake of any old mixture from the root ball. To avoid worms getting into your pots whilst outside, raise your plants a couple of inches from the ground, and sit the pot on a piece of tile or other suitable smooth material.
A common disease for house plants is rotting. Rotting is caused by fungi and signs of this will include unhealthy looking leaves and leaves dropping off. Rotting is usually caused by over-watering. All damaged parts should be removed and water the remainder sparingly. If the plant has been infected too much, then take cuttings from any remaining healthy parts and throw the plant away. Mildew will show up as a white powder on the leaves. Once again, this is usually caused by too much water. Remove all affected parts and spray the plant with a fungicide. Keep the plant on the dry side for a while, and then water sparingly.
If the leaves of a plant become pale and growth is spindly, then the most probable cause is that the potting mixture has become exhausted. Too much warmth over winter months can also produce a similar effect. Replace the compost with fresh mixture, place in a lighter position during the growing season, and rest in a cool dry site over winter. If the plant appears not to grow during the summer months, then this is another sign that the potting mixture needs replacing or feeding has been neglected. If leaves appear discoloured, distorted or sticky, examine the plant for pests. Leaves which turn yellow, but do not drop off, indicate the presence of lime in plants, that don’t like lime.
If you are unsure of the potting mixture, the right feed, the required room temperature and position, then ask for advice at your local garden centre.
For more information and to find out how you can make money growing plants, click HERE
House Plant Pests and Diseases. Part 1
House Plant Pests and Diseases – Part 1
by Wolfdave
More and more people are discovering that growing indoor plants is a very satisfying and rewarding hobby. And because the homes in which we now live are lighter, warmer and more or less draught free, than they used to be, there is less chance of house plants suffering from dramatic changes in temperature throughout the course of the day, or night. So a whole new range of indoor plants from across the world can now be successfully grown indoors.
This article focuses on common pests and diseases found on indoor plants.
Ants are not necessarily harmful themselves, but they can carry aphids to the softer parts of the plant. Ants are attracted to the honeydew deposited by green fly and can carry these pests from plant to plant. Your local garden centre will have a pesticide in dust form, to control ants on house plants.
Aphid or greenfly is a familiar garden pest that can move indoors. These attack the plant by sucking sap from it and depositing sticky honeydew, which in turn can attract fungus. Leaves, stems and flowers may appear distorted. The aphid’s are not only green, but can also be grey, black or yellow. As soon as you spot this pest spray the plant with pyrethrum or permethrin. If neither of these can be obtained quickly, then use soapy water and repeat spray regularly. Also soak the soil with any of the above. Remove and discard distorted growths.
Leaf Miners often attack Chrysanthemums and Cinerarias by tunnelling through leaves. They leave tell-tale wandering narrow lines, or ‘mines’ and the grubs can usually be spotted if the leaves are examined closely. Remove any affected leaves and spray the plant with a pesticide suitable for grubs.
Mealy Bugs. These are little oval bugs, covered with a white fluffy substance, they are usually found under leaves or on leaf joints. Almost any plant can be attacked causing the plant to wilt and leaves to yellow. Pick of all the bugs that you can with a tooth pick, any nests can be wiped away with soft cotton wool or a fine paintbrush soaked with methylated spirits. Spray all top growth with a suitable pesticide and examine plants regularly for reinfestation.
Red Spider Mites. Distorted and dry looking leaves are a common sign that these tiny mites are present. Look under the leaves for a fine white web. The red or pink pests are difficult to see without a magnifying glass. Prompt action is needed to stop the infestation from spreading. Badly affected leaves should be cut away, then spray the plant with a liquid derris. Repeat after 5 days and again after 10 days.
Scale Insects. These creatures are a yellowish brown colour and can be difficult to detect. They cling to the underside of leaves and are covered with a hard waxy cover. They suck sap from the plant causing it to wither. They also secrete honeydew which in turn can attract ants. Remove by scraping with a tooth pick or the top of a biro pen. Then wash the leaves with soapy water and apply a pesticide.
Thrips or thunder flies suck sap from soft foliage. They move about by jumping and leave black dots on the leaves or white spots on flowers. Remove damaged foliage and spray with liquid derris or suitable pesticide.
Part two covers Weevils, White Flies and Worms, and includes common house plant diseases.
For more information and to find out how you can make money from growing plants, click HERE
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